We heard that the Bitterroot Valley is a very pretty place in Montana. I have wanted to visit it for a very long time, but there is so much more to the story. Yes, the Bitterroot Valley is beautiful.
We spent ten wonder-filled days in a tiny campground on the edge of the Bitterroot Valley. So we explored and played in the valley for ten days, but honestly, we didn’t spend enough time there. Getting the whole experience may take all summer.
At the bottom of a lake
Like my story about Lake Gosiute which I explained in my previous post (Across Wyoming), Ice Age lakes covered much of the west. Lake Gosiute covered much of Wyoming. Lake Bonneville covered much of Utah and Lake Missoula covered much of western Montana. The Bitterroot Valley was at the bottom of Lake Missoula.
Lake Missoula
Lake Missoula was caused by an ice dam (Ice Age Glacier from Canada) that blocked the Clark Fork (of the Columbia River) and backed up water covering all of western Montana’s mountain valleys. The lake was huge—the size of Lake Erie and Lake Ontario combined. At times, the ice dam was 2500 feet tall.
One of the interesting things about Lake Missoula is that it covers all the low-lying areas west of the continental divide in Montana. Therefore, the lake’s shape was very irregular, with the valleys covered and the mountain peaks remaining islands. Unlike Lake Bonneville, Lake Missoula was very deep, at more than 2000 feet deep.
The big flood
Eventually, the glaciers receded north into Canada as the Ice Age ended. Lake Missoula broke through the dam, flooding toward the Pacific Ocean. The flood was tremendous because so much water was behind the dam. The gap grew as water poured through the breached dam, and the water volume increased to epic proportions. No flood in our lifetime equals this flood. It would be as if Lake Michigan drained into the Mississippi River, all in one day. As the dam broke, the estimates are that the wall of water may have exceeded 1000 feet.
This flooded nearby Glacial Lake Spokane and then all of eastern Washington. As the flood moved westward, it flooded the Columbia River basin and completely filled the Willamette Valley in Oregon before continuing to the ocean. Actually, the process recurred more than forty times, give or take. All we have to go by is the geology.
The valley at the bottom
The Bitterroot Valley (and all the valleys at the bottom of Lake Missoula) is so flat because it is at the bottom of the lake. Now, the Bitterroot River runs northbound through the valley and has outstanding trout fishing. The farms along the valley are beautiful. When Lewis and Clark followed the valley northbound, they recorded that it was covered by sagebrush.
The Bitterroot Valley is 95 miles long and runs from the south of the small town of Sula at the south end to Lolo at the north end. The valley is sandwiched between the Saphire Mountian Range on the east and the Bitterroot Range on the west. Sometimes, it is called the Hamilton Valley because it is the name of the largest town.
Lewis and Clark
We have gone to so many places where Lewis and Clark explored. The same is true for the Bitterroot Valley. At Lolo, they set up what they called Traveler’s Rest, and just before exiting the valley westbound, we stayed at an RV park just to the west of their camp.
Lewis and Clark stopped at the Bitterroot twice, once westbound and then again as they returned to the east. Sargent Patrick Gass of the Lewis and Clark journey of discovery described the Bitterroot Mountains to the east. He called the Bitterroot Mountains ” the most terrible mountains I ever beheld.” Just as Lewis and Clark did (they walked, we did not), we followed their path westbound across Lolo Pass and to Washington on the west side. That, however, is a different story. I will get to it soon.
Missoula
Our campground in the Bitterroot Valley is an easy drive to Missoula, and we did that several times. Usually, our mission was to attend the weekly farmer’s market and street fair. We did this on a previous visit ( here is a link, Montana Remote) later in the season and found the offerings better than any other farmer’s market we had ever seen.
This time, we were there too early in the growing season, so the vegetables were not as spectacular, but the street fair was in full swing. The best part was the food trucks lined up around the enormous covered patio.
Sadly, another treat for Missoula didn’t survive the Covid shutdown. Even though we mentioned them in the Montana Remote post, Tia’s Big Sky (Tia’s Tacos)was closed permanently.
Bass Creek
To explore the Bitterroot Mountains and better view the valley, we took the westbound trail from our campsite and up Bass Creek. We got as far as a pond created by a log jam. I swear the trail was at least four miles uphill but only two miles back downhill. Overall, it was a beautiful hike, and Bass Creek was running fast, from a tiny waterfall to the next.
Lake Como
Lake Como is in one of the canyons west of the Bitterroot Valley. We targeted it as a great place to kayak, and we were right. It was so beautiful. Again, our kayaks were so easy to use, even after the wind picked up on our faces on the way back to the beach where we launched.
Lake Como is located on Rock Creek, which flows east of the Bitterroot River. Rock Creek and Little Rock Creek both feed the lake. Both creeks start in the Selway/Bitterroot wilderness area.
In 1910, farmers dammed the creek to provide water for agriculture. Since then, it has become a target for fun seekers. It is very popular with locals from Hamilton and Darby. On the south side of the lake, near the dam, is a boat launch. We launched from the beach on the north side of the lake. The Forest Service made the beach and roped off a swim area.
Conclusion
It is not a conclusion, but over and over again, teachers have told me that it is incomplete not to have an introduction or conclusion. I do my best to connect the random ramblings to life around me. Overall (in the summer), I find the Bitterroot Valley fascinating and wonderful. In the winter, I suspect that I would also find it wonderful, measured in snow depth and cold winds.
Some more links about and with our Hurricane Prima Kayaks
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Links
National Park Service Ice Age Floods
Missoula Out to Lunch at Riverside Park
Missoula Downtown Tonight at Riverside Park
Missoula Handmade Summer Made Fair
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Sounds like you two had a wonderful time. Lake Missoula being 2000 feet deep is incredible! Beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing
This was a very pretty place. I could come back every summer.
Once again your photography and comments capture the area magnificently. We feel we are there with you. And the history and geology lessons provide very meaningful context. Very special. Thank you two!
I can’t tell you how opposite the Bitterroot Valley as compared to any place in San Diego.
Looks beautiful!!
I’ve always wanted to explore Montana.
We will be there next week.
In north-northeastern Idaho till tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing that county in the next 2-3 weeks.
The Blackfoot River Valley is also supposed to be stunning.
Where did you stay in the Bitterroot valley? Would you recommend any specific campgrounds?
Comment transferred from Lolo Pass.
We stayed at the Charles Waters Campground in the Bass Creek Recreation area. It is a National Forest Campground on the Lolo Mountain side of Bitterroot Valley north of Stevensville.
We loved it. But it doesn’t have hookups and the cell service is poor.