Our new batteries

Boondocking with our new batteries after our generator died.

We planned to boondock on our new batteries, but we didn’t plan to spend our boondocking time without a generator. After moving from our camping spot at the North Fork Campground, we moved to our new boondocking spot. Our generator quit working on the first day; we didn’t have it to recharge our new batteries or run the air conditioning.

On the first day of boondocking in the Sawtooth Mountains, our generator died. Our generator wouldn’t start after three rain-soaked nights of off-grid camping north of Ketchum. We discovered the problem after we arrived at our boondocking spot. We weren’t optimistic about how long we could stay.

The view of our RV in our boondocking spot as seen from Baker Creek.
The view of our RV in our boondocking spot as seen from Baker Creek. No neighbors within a quarter mile; I couldn’t ask for more, except that my generator would start and help charge our new batteries.

While at the North Fork Campground, our generator was indispensable, especially when our furnace failed. As for the new batteries, the generator also charged them while we heated our RV with its electricity. Once I fixed the furnace, we stopped using the generator for heating, and our new batteries slowly drained, getting nothing meaningful from the solar.

We were deep enough in the trees at the North Fork Campground that sunshine for our solar was not reasonable, especially since it was rainy. When exiting the North Fork Campground, perhaps if we’d known the generator wouldn’t be an option, we would have chosen the easier route and stayed at an RV Park after leaving the campground.

After trimming our way in to our campsite at the North Fork Campground this is what it looked like. We pulled in with the nose of the RV at the front of the site in this Aspen Grove. After winter started, it looked much the same except everything was very wet.
After trimming our way into our campsite at the North Fork Campground, this is what it looked like. We pulled in with the nose of the RV at the front of the site in this Aspen Grove. After winter started, it looked much the same except everything was very wet.

My generator wouldn’t start.

We didn’t know our generator wouldn’t start, and we would be boondocking on solar only until after we arrived at our boondocking site. If we’d had any indication our generator wouldn’t work, we would have made a couple different decisions about our campsite. We chose a site that wasn’t ideal for solar but would be shaded for much of the day. If we parked in the direct sun, we would need air conditioning. Shade keeps the RV cooler but isn’t good for charging our new batteries with our solar panels.

The Sawtooth Mountains near Stanley are very rugged and have much more snow than the Sawtooth Mountains only about 30 miles south of here. This photo was taken from our campsite north of Stanley.
The Sawtooth Mountains near Stanley are very rugged and have much more snow than the Sawtooth Mountains only about 30 miles south of here. We took this photo from our campsite north of Stanley. We took this photo when we arrived at our new campsite north of Stanley.

After three days in the rain, we started our week-long boondocking adventure with our new batteries already half depleted. As for our generator being dead, that may be a little bit of an overstatement. The best description is that our generator failed to start. As a result, we have 500 pounds of extra weight up front in our RV.

As a result, we couldn’t use our generator to recharge our new batteries. Our generator was our backup plan; relying on our solar array without a generator backup wasn’t a good plan. In this article, I will explain how we made all our own electricity using only our solar array. Here is a link to our post about our boondocking adventure. Awesome Boondocking Adventure in the Sawtooths

Overall I was disappointed with Redfish Lake. It was too popular for my comfort. Way too many people.
Overall, I was disappointed with Redfish Lake. It was too popular for my comfort. Way too many people.

The good thing about shade

Maybe it was a mistake to choose a site with a mountain blocking the morning sun. Sunshine didn’t hit our RV until after ten in the morning. The shade between two trees kept us cooler than a site in the direct sun. Of course, the trees just south of the RV cast a shadow across the solar panels, limiting our ability to recharge our new batteries. The most important period for charging our new batteries is between 10 am and 2 pm. Before 10 am and after 2 pm, the indirect sunlight helps, but most of a daily charge happens in the four hours centered on noon.

The Sawtooth Mountains north of Stanley.
The Sawtooth Mountains north of Stanley.

The shade kept us cooler than we would have been if the RV had been sitting in direct sun. Since I fixed our furnace only two days before moving to our boondocking site, we could use it, rather than sunlight through the front window, to warm the RV each morning. It was cold every morning when we were boondocking in the Sawtooth Mountains. This article also details how I fixed the furnace after it screeched to a stop. Winter started at the end of June.

The bad thing about shade

The bad thing about shade is that my solar array couldn’t keep up with our electricity use over the week, and our battery state of charge gradually dropped until we worried the new batteries would dip into a severely discharged state. We were one cloudy day away from leaving our boondocking site because we ran out of power. We had clouds every day while we were boondocking in the Sawtooth Mountains.

View of the Sawtooth Mountains north of Redfish Lake.
View of the Sawtooth Mountains north of Redfish Lake. While beautiful, clouds like these make charging our new batteries only using our solar panels a little difficult.

After seven days, we left our boondocking site not because we were out of water or electricity, but because we needed to go somewhere to get our generator fixed. What isn’t obvious, and a reason I didn’t have to worry about severely depleted batteries, is that we have two separate battery banks. One creates Alternating Current (AC), and the other is dedicated to Direct Current (DC). The AC battery bank can charge the DC battery but not the other way around. We installed our new batteries in the AC battery bank.

About our new batteries

Our new batteries are Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO₄ or LFP), not nickel manganese cobalt (NMC). Both are lithium-ion batteries, but they are not the same. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are safer to use and store and will last about five times longer than nickel manganese cobalt batteries. The only advantage NMC batteries might have is smaller size.

This spring we remodeled our battery bank, and I now have new batteries with three Lion Energy UT 3500 batteries that combined have 840 amp-hours of storage, plus one six-year-old Lion Energy UT1300 that has 105 amp-hours of storage (when new). In the future, I will add an additional Lion Energy UT3500 battery to the setup so that I could, if needed, convert to a 48-volt inverter when our current inverter finally quits. Because a single Lion Energy UT3500 is nearly equal to three of my previous batteries. I only need one additional UT3500 battery to convert to a 48-volt system.

Here is my solo battery being installed. Behind and under the battery is a foam pad to insulate the compartment. Notice the batttery monitor shunt on to the left of the battery on the negative wire.
Here is my Lion Energy UT 1300 battery being installed six years ago. I am still using it as my only DC battery and backup battery. Behind and under the battery is a foam pad to insulate the compartment. Notice the battery monitor shunt on the left of the battery on the negative wire. I removed this shunt from my system because it didn’t tell me anything. I keep this battery full all the time, 24 hours a day, anytime the main battery bank has a charge.

When my battery upgrade is finished, my main battery bank will have 1120 amp hours of storage. For those who prefer watt-hours (more accurate), the main battery bank will have about 14,000 watt-hours. Plus, our six-year-old Lion Energy UT1300 battery is doing backup duties.

Wiring the shunt
My shunt feeds its information to the display on the left. Together, they make the Victron Battery Monitor BMV-712. If I had to do it over, I would have used a copper bar between the terminals below the shunt up to the shunt. This 0000 wire is doing a great job, but the picture would have been a little less busy with a copper bar. Today my choice would be the Victron Smart shunt without the display. We don’t need it because we use the app on our phones.

I still use the split system where my Lion Energy UT3500 batteries are my main battery bank and my six-year-old Lion Energy UT1300 is my backup battery. To understand how this system is set up, I wrote this article when I changed the setup to make the Lion Energy UT1300 a backup battery and gave all my sealed lead-acid batteries to a friend. Can one lithium battery replace four lead-acid batteries?

The key difference between these two images is that the screenshot on the left shows discharging, and the one on the right shows charging. While charging, the voltage is only slightly higher than when discharging. This, along with other factors associated with lithium batteries, shows that voltage doesn’t tell the whole story. The battery bank on the right-hand screenshot is depleted.

How to treat lithium batteries

For the last six years, I have lived happily knowing my battery setup was a success. I also know that my new battery setup is a success. The number one thing you can do with a lithium battery setup is monitor its use carefully. Don’t ask for more than they can deliver comfortably. How do I know how to treat my new batteries gently… I have an article about that. The RV battery monitor is the most important part

Heat is a problem

Correct charge and discharge rates keep input and output within what the battery can handle, so it stays cool and doesn’t overheat. All batteries release heat both while charging and discharging. If you charge or discharge rapidly, then extra heat builds up quickly. If you discharge rapidly and then immediately recharge rapidly without letting the heat dissipate, it will hurt the batteries. Extra heat is bad for batteries. I want to keep my new batteries in like-new condition.

Battery screen capture showing 84% charge and power (minus power being currently used) at 926 watts.
Battery screen capture showing 84% charge and power being put into the battery (minus power being currently used) at 926 watts. At the bottom of this screen is the battery temperature sensor.

Cold is a problem

Cold can also be a problem. Ideally, the best temperature for your lithium batteries is about 65 degrees (18 degrees Celsius). I monitor my batteries very closely to make sure they never get cold. Nearly all lithium batteries have an automatic charging disconnect if the temperature drops low enough. You can’t recharge your batteries when they are below freezing. Here is our article about killing batteries. Destructive Lithium testing.

Klein Volt AC/DC Clamp Meter
Klein Volt AC/DC Clamp Meter is attached to the 0000 cable leading to the inverter. Since the inverter is also a converter, it can charge or discharge. In this case, it is reading 10.5 amps charging. A curious thing about clamp meters is that if you reverse the clamp direction on a DC circuit, you get a negative reading.

The key thing about a clamp meter is that you place it around a single wire. If it is a DC wire, you need a DC clamp meter with a Hall Effect sensor to read DC amperage. A clamp meter reads the magnetic field around the wire as voltage flows through it. In this photo, I am not using this clamp meter correctly; the sense lines are indicated by a raised area on the clamp. To get an accurate reading, place the wire next to the active part of the clamp.

Size can be an issue

It isn’t a question of how big the battery is, but rather how big the battery bank is. A bigger battery bank discharges more slowly (compared to a single battery) and recharges more slowly than a smaller battery bank. Six years ago, I sized my battery bank to go for more than 24 hours without a recharge. Instead of guessing, I tested my setup for six months to figure out how large I wanted the battery bank to be before I purchased my batteries, and another six months before I decided how big a solar array I wanted. Here is a link to an article about that subject. RV Boondocking Without Solar

Air Conditioner from Solar and Batteries
I took this screenshot while testing our ability to run our air conditioner from our solar and batteries. Notice that I am pulling 203.57 amps from my system (2638 watts). These numbers were surprising and beyond my system’s calculated capability, especially given a 100-degree temperature measured at the battery. During this test, I was running on 900 amp hours of battery capacity; each battery contributed only 22.5 amps of the full load. 22.5 amps was easily within the output range of the battery bank.

What is special about my new batteries?

My new batteries have built-in heaters. Unlike my previous batteries. My new batteries not only have low-temperature charging protection, but they also route incoming power to internal heaters to warm the batteries to charging temperature. You never want to charge batteries when they are cold. Remember the article about testing lithium batteries to kill them. That was the subject. Here is another link to that article. Destructive Lithium testing.

Metal case

I really like the Lion Energy UT3500 metal battery case for a few reasons. Most obviously, a metal case is strong. The metal case also allows for rapid heat transfer to the outside of the battery. Heat dissipation is important for both charging and discharging. The metal case helps keep temperatures lower during use. Second, if one of the battery’s heaters is activated, the metal case helps transfer heat to the other batteries to keep them warm. Since my new batteries are located right next to each other, the entire battery bank will benefit from the heat.

The terminals of my Lion UT3500 batteries had these very nice terminal covers. They would have been great if I was not using such big 0000 cables for my wiring.
The terminals of my Lion UT3500 batteries had these very nice terminal covers. They would have been great if I were not using such big 0000 cables for my wiring. Notice the handle on top of the battery; since this battery weighs more than 70 pounds, it needs two handles.

Batteries with Bluetooth

My new batteries have Bluetooth and WiFi connections. We can monitor our new Lion Energy UT3500 battery status, including state of charge, via Bluetooth directly from our phone. I am very impressed with this capability, and it’s especially important if your RV doesn’t have a shunt-based battery monitor. I love having both Bluetooth in the battery and a shunt battery monitor. I am almost ready to say that if you have a Lion Energy UT3500 battery with Bluetooth, you might not need a shunt. In 2021, I wrote this article about monitoring my batteries. The RV battery monitor is the most important part

Since my new batteries have Bluetooth, are they networked so that each battery knows the state of charge of the other batteries in the battery bank? If so, the battery management system could slightly restrict or even pause charging of the high battery to let another battery in the bank increase its charge rate. I have noticed a small difference between one battery being full while the other batteries are almost full.

When you first take the battery out of the box there is a QR code to download the Lion Energy Bluetooth app to your phone.
This photo is a top-down view of my new batteries. When you first take the battery out of the box, you can scan the QR code to download the Lion Energy Bluetooth app to your phone.

Low voltage shutdown

My new batteries have a low-voltage shutoff at 10.5 volts. If you discharge a battery too much without this feature, you might kill it, or (sometimes) you might be able to restart it. Even with our new batteries at less than 20% total charge, I didn’t have to worry about going too low because of this feature. Yes, one time I accidentally let my batteries run down all the way to inverter shutdown. Here is a link to that article. Our RV electrical failure led to a surprising discovery.

I was able to connect the new batteries to 0000 cables using a slight modification of the terminal covers.
I was able to connect the new batteries to 0000 cables using a slight modification of the terminal covers. Since I need two of these huge cables attached to each terminal, I had to remove the terminal cover. I use a zip tie to keep the cover closed after I modified it.

How to Interpret Battery State of Charge and Solar Charging Data.

How to Interpret Victron Battery State of Charge and Solar Charging Data. I have a large solar array to recharge our new batteries, but the information available on the Bluetooth displays isn’t apparent to everyone.

To help me identify my new batteries I named them according to their position in the RV.
To help me identify my new batteries, I named them according to their position in the RV. I use the Bluetooth option all the time but have not tried the WiFi option. Notice that the Bluetooth icon is not bright blue. In this case, it means the Bluetooth is not available. When charging or discharging, the icon turns blue. I think it should be on all the time. Besides the Bluetooth, a good change to this page would be to have each battery report its current state of charge as a summary. I don’t need to see the battery serial number now that I renamed them.

My RV battery and solar array consist of two Victron MPPT 100/50 charge controllers, 1,800 watts of Zamp Obsidian solar panels, and about 900 amps of lithium iron phosphate batteries. I also have a Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor. My Victron solar charge controllers also have Bluetooth, so I can monitor the system’s performance. In the background, each component networks with the others for optimal charging. My new batteries and Victron components all have Bluetooth so I can monitor them.

My three new batteries during installation.
My three new batteries during installation of the angle brackets that prevent movement and shifting. You can’t rely on just the cables alone, even my huge cables, to prevent movement while we are driving.

Bluetooth

My new batteries’ Bluetooth data is sufficient to monitor my system thoroughly. Victron has created newer and more expensive equipment that I don’t have, but since my current system is sufficient, I don’t think I need it. I could invest more money and time in newer gear, but I don’t believe it is necessary. Now that I have a Bluetooth connection directly from my new batteries, I’m sure that I don’t need the new Victron equipment.

In this photo of my new batteries I am using the angle brackets to secure them to the floor.
In this photo of my new batteries, I am using the angle brackets to secure them to the floor. Once they’re fully installed, they will be clamped together. A good manufacturing idea would be to add mounting bolts and brackets so the batteries can’t move relative to each other. There could be hardware between the batteries, as well as hardware to attach the batteries to the RV.

On my Victron BMV 712, I can also see on my inverter display how my inverter is working. When hooked up to shore power, I can also tell how my charger is working, all from the Victron app on my phone. This information was critical because it showed that while I was recharging, the charger part of my inverter wasn’t working correctly.

Our Magnum Energy control screen is showing 9.1 volts on the batteries. I knew my batteries were at 14 volts when this photo was snapped. Notice also that the charger says it is charging but the 0 amps shows otherwise. It isn't working.
Our Magnum Energy control screen is showing 9.1 volts on the batteries. I knew my batteries were at 14 volts when I snapped this photo. Also, the charger says it is charging, but the 0 amps show otherwise. It isn’t working. I wish my inverter had Bluetooth. I had to completely reset the inverter to fix this issue.

Lots of numbers

The key point to remember about Bluetooth information is that positive numbers are good. In terms of banking, positive numbers are deposits and negative numbers are withdrawals.

The most critical information is delivered to me with my Victron Battery Monitor. If your RV battery lacks a battery monitor, you’re left guessing (even with a voltmeter) about its state of charge. I think the Victron Battery Monitor is so important to my system that I wrote an article about it. Here is a link. The RV battery monitor 

Interpreting Battery Monitor data

Breakdown of the BMV-712 Battery monitor information.
My Victron BMV-712 Bluetooth app is reading 100% full-charge data on my new batteries. How do I know this is the charging voltage? The positive current and power numbers tell me the battery bank is charging.

Breakdown of the Battery Monitor data

~State of Charge

The battery state of charge is the most critical number. If you have lead-acid batteries, you need to recharge them to 100% each day. If you don’t get lead-acid batteries back to 100%, you will reduce their lifespan. Recharging lithium batteries to 100% daily isn’t crucial for battery health.

~Battery Voltage

Battery voltage matters, but less than state of charge. A battery voltage between 12.7 and 12.9 is a fully recharged lead-acid battery. When charging, this number is the charging voltage, not the resting voltage. Expect to see higher numbers here than resting voltage when charging from any source.

~Current

Current measures how many amps are flowing into or out of the battery. In this graphic, since the number is positive, current is flowing into the battery at 5.4 amps.

~Power

Power measures the wattage going into or out of the battery. In this graphic, the wattage is 78. Multiply the wattage by the voltage to get the current.

~Consumed Ah

This number is the true state of discharge as compared to a full battery. In the above graphic, Consumed Ah is -4 Ah, indicating the battery is not completely full. Given the current is 5.4 amps and not being used for anything else, I would expect a full charge anytime.

~Time remaining

When charging, it would be nice to see time to full rather than just a dash. When discharging, time remaining is good enough.

Interpreting Victron Solar controller data

My passenger side solar controller showing 388 watts coming from the panels. The total network power information which is critical to understand how your solar array is working is not being displayed on this controller.
My passenger-side solar controller Bluetooth screen.

Breakdown of the Solar Controller data

This controller is hooked to the passenger-side array on my RV. I have a second controller for the panels on the driver’s side of my RV. The names relate to how I wired the panels.

~Solar Wattage

The largest number on the solar controller data screen is the wattage on the solar array associated with this controller. On this graphic, the wattage is 388 watts.

~Solar voltage and current

The voltage coming from the solar panels is 62.92 volts, and the current is 6.2 amps. This next section breaks down what the controller is actually doing to the battery bank.

~Battery

The Battery section describes the controller’s output to the battery.

~Voltage

The voltage converts the solar array voltage from the previous section to the correct battery voltage. 14.4 volts is the ideal charge voltage for my batteries. 14.4 is not the resting voltage of a fully charged battery.

~Current

Current measures the flow into the battery. In this graphic, this controller is charging the battery at 26.5 amps per hour. The maximum current that can flow into my battery from each controller is 50 amps. I almost never see 50 amps from my controller.

~Temperature

Temperature is referenced from the controller, not the panels. I usually ignore this number unless it is hot or cold outside.

~State

The controller determines how to charge the batteries. The state refers to the charge stage, which can be bulk, absorption, or float. This state carries over from when the most common battery was lead-acid. Make sure that any controller you buy has a profile to charge Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries.

Screen Capture of four days of solar production including two cloudy/rainy days.
Screen Capture of four days of solar production on my passenger side array, including two cloudy/rainy days. Assuming the power is equal (it never is), my driver’s side array would produce a similar amount. I have frequently seen production of more than 8 kWh (combined output of my two controllers) in a single day.

Network power

As previously mentioned, my two solar controllers communicate with each other and my battery monitor. Each device monitors battery discharge and recharging. The following screen displays combined data from both solar controllers.

Drivers side charging controller showing 1018 watts of network power. Charging amps is for one controller not network power.
Network total power graphic. I wish my controller would have a new line of information called Network Charging Amps.

In this case, the controller is receiving 443 watts from the solar array and supplying 31.7 amps of current to the battery. It also monitors the other solar controller and combines its wattage, as represented in the Network Total Power section. The Network Total Power section shows that 1018 watts is charging the batteries. If you take the 443 watts from the Network Total Power, you will see that the other solar controller is producing 575 watts at this time.

A Network Total Power of 1018 watts at 13.64 volts results in 74.63 amps flowing into the batteries.

Since I have two solar controllers and two arrays, my total network power matters, but I wish Victron could provide a clearer picture of what is happening.

Solar Array output from the passenger side of our RV. The passenger side is producing 728 watts and the total network power is 1366 watts.
Solar Array output from the passenger side of our RV. The passenger side is producing 728 watts, and the total network power is 1366 watts. If you divide the total network power by the voltage, you get 99 amps per hour entering my batteries. Since my maximum is 50 amp hours from each controller, I can’t really explain how this controller’s output is 52.10 amps when I took this screenshot. I guess it is within specs. What it doesn’t say is how many amps beyond the 52.1 are being discarded as extra.

Managing expectations

You will never see large current flowing into an already full battery. This doesn’t mean your panels can’t produce power. Rather, it means that the battery is already full.

Combining the information to get a complete picture of what is happening

The following screenshots are from my Lion Energy UT3500 battery. One of the most important reasons is to make sure all the batteries are similar in both charge and discharge. All three batteries should hit 100% at about the same time. The large number in the middle is the battery state of charge. Above that, it clearly mentions the word charging or discharging. If amperage input is higher than consumption, the battery is charging. Each battery also shows its internal temperature (which rises slightly when charging or discharging) and voltage, which is only accurate when discharging.

This screenshot is the status of my driver's side battery. This display clearly says it is charging and at 4.4 watts (0.3) amps it will be full in 28 minutes. It also says the internal temperature of the battery is 77 degrees and the charging voltage is 14.8.
This screenshot shows the status of my driver’s-side battery. This display clearly says it is charging at 4.4 watts (0.3 amps) and will be full in 28 minutes. It also says the battery’s internal temperature is 77 degrees and the charging voltage is 14.18.

The estimated time remaining assumes the discharge rate stays the same, with no change in amperage. Since I have three new batteries, they should all charge or discharge at about the same rate, and each should have a similar time-to-empty reading when discharging.

How I use this data

Using all this information, plus a little crystal-ball reading about solar and shading, I stretched our Boondocking time to seven days before we ran out of both water and battery state of charge. Seven days after we arrived at our boondocking site and needed to recharge water and battery and dump our holding tanks, we crossed Galena Pass to a campground in Stanley. When we left our boondocking site, our batteries were below 20% state of charge.

The Salmon River north of Stanley.
The Salmon River north of Stanley.

While boondocking and data gathering, I also learned that the solar array on the driver’s side doesn’t produce as much power as the passenger side. Since we were in the middle of the summer and the sun was nearly straight overhead, this was unexpected. I will learn more about this subject after I make a trip up on the roof of the RV.

The Sawtooth Mountains near Stanley are very rugged and have much more snow. This photo was taken from our campsite north of Stanley.
The Sawtooth Mountains near Stanley are very rugged and have much more snow. This photo was taken from our campsite north of Stanley.

The generator still wouldn’t start; I tried it about twenty times over the week leading up to our arrival in Stanley. 

Getting our generator repaired

So we drove north to the next town (Salmon) to get the generator repaired. Stanley is beautiful but way too small to get my generator fixed. I will have more to say about all of this in my next post. I wish I had had the resources to stay near Stanley for another week. But I had to get that generator fixed; I had enough water and solar to make it, but time is a resource to manage, too.

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Links

North Fork Campground, Sawtooth Recreation Area

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Lion Energy UT3500 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery

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