Stunning Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway

After three hundred miles, we are still on the Alaska Highway, heading west from Fort Nelson and climbing into the Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway. The road is getting steeper, with more scenic views of mountaintops covered with snow fields. Wild animals along the route are more numerous and bigger. Views of the lakes along the highway are stunning.

Departing Dawson Creek

One week after the first train load of Army Engineers arrived, they kicked off the road building. Train after train arrived in Dawson Creek, and everything was loaded with construction equipment. More train loads of construction equipment followed the first train as fast as they could be loaded and then unloaded in Dawson Creek. The railyards at Dawson Creek had never seen this level of activity. The builders needed everything for the first leg of road building in Dawson Creek before the weather warmed.

The equipment needed to be in Dawson Creek while it was still cold because the only way north out of Dawson Creek to Fort Saint John included crossing the Peace River. The Peace River was frozen solid, and everything needed to be on the north side of the river. There was no bridge, and the only way to cross the river was by ferry or, during the winter, by crossing the ice.

In Fort Saint John

They didn’t have to build a road on both sides of the Peace River. The road was already there, leading to the ferry landing that connected Dawson City to Fort Saint John. Getting all the soldiers and construction equipment across the Peace River would have been impossible had they waited even for two months. Cold weather for the road builders was a major advantage for the first 300 miles going to Fort Nelson.

Twenty-One Days and Three Hundred Miles Later

As supplies flooded in from every conceivable point in North America, the builders set out in bitter-cold weather to clear the road to Fort Nelson. Again, the cold weather was an advantage. “Catskinners” plowed through the forest on their bulldozers, knocking everything down and pushing everything out of the way. Snow, dirt, rocks, and trees were all pushed to the side to be dealt with later.

It only took twenty-one days for the bulldozers to arrive three hundred miles north in Fort Nelson. The bulldozers were followed by trucks carrying fuel and parts to keep progress moving. Equipment that failed was pushed off to the side and cannibalized for parts. Campsites for the builders were moved 15-25 miles a day to keep up with the bulldozers. Also pushed off to the side of the road were thousands of empty 55-gallon fuel barrels used to keep the machines going. Anything that caused delays in the building was immediately pushed out of the way and left for the cleanup crew.

Turning West in Fort Nelson

I am picking up most of today’s article starting in Fort Nelson. You can call the previous section a preview. The route from Dawson Creek to Fort Nelson is the subject of last week’s article. Here is a link to the story. Going North on the Alaska Highway

From Fort Nelson, the Alaska Highway turns west, climbing into the Northern Rockies. The terrain gently rises, and the dense forests on both sides of the road continue. In 1942, when the road was being built, I am sure they were very happy to be turning west away from the dense forest. As for the builders, they were very hopeful for the upcoming spring warm-up and being away from the cold and ice.

The Muskwa Valley

The construction crews turned west, generally following the north side of the Muskwa River. This means that the only major river crossing on the Alaska Highway north of Fort St. John was the Muskwa River. There was no bridge in 1942, south of Fort Nelson, across the Muskwa River. The road builders needed everything to be north of the Muskwa River before the spring thaw. Resupply from Dawson Creek during the summer wouldn’t be possible until a bridge was built — in June of the following year.

Airmail

Things changed dramatically, starting in Fort Nelson. Instead of supplying the builders from the south, fuel and supplies were airlifted into Fort Nelson. While the trailblazers turned to the west, additional construction crews in Dawson Creek upgraded the new road south of Fort Nelson. The trailblazing road-cutting crew turned west, getting their new supplies arriving daily by aircraft landing in Fort Nelson. Resupply from Dawson Creek to Fort Nelson for the trailblazers was finished for the rest of the summer.

Northern Rockies

Turning west into the Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway from Fort Nelson meant the effort would change. South of Fort Nelson, the bulldozers cut the road for nearly fifteen miles daily. Trees were not cut; instead, since they were frozen, they snapped when hit with the bulldozer blade. Unlike the snow and stumps in frozen mud south of Fort Nelson, the rocks to the west of Fort Nelson, in the Rocky Mountains, didn’t yield to the bulldozer blade.

The answer to the rock problem was dynamite and lots of it. Progress took much longer after they turned west for the next 288 miles. Eventually, the trailblazers building west from Fort Nelson met the trailblazing road builders from Watson Lake heading south. The two crews met at Contact Creek on September 24, 1942.

Slow Progress

Progress to building north to Fort Nelson was 15 miles per day. Progress west of Fort Nelson through the Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway slowed to less than two miles per day. Cutting the trail for the Alaska Highway became very hard. The road became tough to build, starting at the climb out of the Muskwa Valley towards Summit Lake, and continued to be difficult for the next 140 miles, all the way to the Liard River. For the trailblazers, life became a little easier since the campsites didn’t have to move every day. At least they weren’t freezing.

The Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway, between the climb to Summit Lake and the Liard River, comprise 140 miles of challenging terrain. From the Liard River to Contact Creek, the terrain was only slightly easier for the next 88 miles. Unlike the frozen forest south of Fort Nelson, the mountains have created huge cliffs and hundreds of stream crossings.

The terrain was steep, and the canyons were narrow. Some sections of the road had to be carved out of the side of the cliff, requiring more dynamite.

Our Trip through the Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway

We drove the first 300 miles up the Alaska Highway to Fort Nelson in one day. After visiting and resting in Fort Nelson for the next two nights, we departed early for our journey to Muncho Lake. The last 100 miles to Muncho Lake were scenic, going through the Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway.

Fort Nelson to Muncho Lake

As we departed Fort Nelson, we immediately began to see more bears along the road. We saw three bears south of Fort Nelson during the first 300 miles. The last one was just to the south of town at the end of our drive for the day. I had to hit the brakes for that one. When he saw me, he ran back into the forest. When we departed Fort Nelson, we saw three more bears in the first half hour of our trip. In the next half hour, I had to report to Tami that I lost count. Was that six? I don’t know.

Most of the bears we saw were close to Fort Nelson. Near Summit Lake, we started seeing caribou. Later, still north of Muncho Lake, we were greeted by Stone sheep and more caribou. The bison count started going up very fast west of Liard Hot Springs.

Muncho Lake was stunning. After our 150-mile total for the day, we were looking forward to a long, relaxing visit. Our campground was at the Muncho Lake Provincial Park (McDonald Campground), right on the edge of the lake, with a view of the beautiful water from inside our RV. The weather was cold, even though we were at the end of May.

Mucho Lake to Liard River Hot Springs

Even though it was only thirty-five miles away, it was too good to be accurate, and we had to stop for the night at Liard River Hotsprings. No trip through the Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway (in my opinion) should be done without stopping at both Muncho Lake and Liard River Hot Springs. Camping at the hot springs was just too tempting to pass up.

Liard River Hotsprings to Watson Lake

Liard River marks the end of the Northern Rockies on the Alaska Highway at milepost 600. The Alaska Highway follows the Liard River west until the road connects to Watson Lake. This section of the road was easy, and our campsite was a few miles west of Watson Lake at the Baby Nugget RV park. We should have stayed in town. Our campsite was good enough and way better than the parking lots in town, but it lacked one thing we liked. Again, we had no cell phone service.

The Sign Post Forest

Watson Lake is home to the Sign Post Forest, and the tradition is that travelers are encouraged to leave their mark by posting a sign there. Currently, there are more than 80,000 signs in the signpost forest. The sign can be pretty much anything you want. One member of our group was able to obtain stainless steel signs, which we mounted on the posts with stainless steel screws. Our signs should outlive the posts. It would be cool to return with a new sign on each visit, remove your previous sign, and then mount it. Your new one is both on the same post.

Video

I love this documentary video about building the Alaska Highway.

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As you know, our blog income is zero, which allows us to be independent and tell the truth. We do not get income or commissions. No, we don’t make paid endorsements. We don’t make recommendations; instead, we will tell you what we like (or dislike). The links are only provided as a quick reference to help our readers.

Links

The start of our Alaska Highway story. Going North on the Alaska Highway

The Milepost Guidebook at this website is updated annually, and you can use the book even without internet data. First published in 1949, it is the bible for travel in Alaska and northwestern Canada.

Historic Mileposts on the Alaska Highway website with key mileposts

Alaska Highway Canada

Alaska Highway 75th Anniversary

Summit Lake, British Columbia

Northern Rockies Lodge Muncho Lake

Liard River Hot Springs Park

Contact Creek Yukon Territory

Signpost Forest Watson Lake

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