Deep into the ice flows at the Columbia Glacier

We went deep into the ice flows at the Columbia Glacier on the Lu-Lu Belle in mid-August during our exploration of Alaska. It was full of surprises, including wildlife, but sadly, no polar bears were seen. That perhaps would have been the only way to improve our trip to the glacier. We didn’t expect to see Polar Bears. Polar Bears are only found on and near the edge of the pack ice (floating sea ice) in the Arctic Ocean. Seeing one at the Columbia Glacier would be unprecedented.

Much more common would be if we saw killer whales. These whales are in the area, but we didn’t see any. They would have been nearby to feed on the abundant harbor seals and sea lions.

Lu-Lu Belle is a tour boat designed by Captain Fred Rodolf. Lu-Lu Belle’s summer home is Valdez Alaska. Each summer for the last 50 years, Captain Fred has toured Prince William Sound and The College Fjords. Captain Fred is the known expert on the College Fjords and the Columbia Glacier.

Prince William Sound and College Fjords

Prince William Sound is a semi-protected bay on the south edge of Alaska. The Kenai Peninsula bounds it on the west side, and the Chugach National Forest to the north. Three large islands protect the bay from the Pacific Ocean, which is not calm (anyone who has crossed it knows that it was poorly named). On the north end of the sound are the College Fjords. Glaciers advancing and receding over eons of time carved each of these narrow channels.

At the end of each of these fjords lies a glacier. The glaciers flow from the icecap at the top of the Chugach Mountains. In my story, I described the ice cap about how we crossed the Glenn Highway and saw the Matanuska Glacier. The Matanuska Glacier and the Columbia Glacier both flow from this ice cap. If you missed the story, here is a link. Going up to the Matanuska Glacier

After following the Glenn Highway, we found our destination in Valdez. I liked Valdez it was my favorite city in Alaska. I also think that Valdez is the most important city in Alaska. If you missed that story, here is a link. Valdez is the most important city in Alaska

The Columbia Glacier

The Columbia Glacier is one of the largest and fastest-moving glaciers in the world. It was the largest glacier found during the Harriman Alaska Expedition in 1899 and named after Columbia University. The other glaciers in the College Fjords were also named after different colleges. The Columbia Glacier moves downhill at a fast rate of more than one foot per day. Since 1986, it has also retreated at a very fast rate. Watch the NASA animation of the Columbia Glacier retreat to get a feel for how fast the glacier retreats. Here is a link (same link at the bottom). NASA Columbia Glacier

The Columbia Glacier moves downhill very fast because of the abundant snow falling on the Chugach ice fields at the top of the glacier. The rapid downhill movement is also one of the reasons that the glacier is retreating rapidly. Because the glacier is a tidewater glacier (a tidewater glacier terminates in the ocean), it flows downhill into the ocean. Someday, perhaps soon, the termination will be on land. I found predictions that this was going to happen a few years ago.

As it flows into the ocean, it not only melts at the terminus but also calves large icebergs into the ocean. The deeper the water, the larger the icebergs and the faster they retreat. Since we only see the very top of an iceberg (the other 90% are below the water), the icebergs we see are related to the depth of the water at the junction. Glaciers that flow downhill rapidly into deep water tend to have larger icebergs.

Deeper water at the glacier’s face exposes it to much more melting action than would happen in shallower water. During the last forty years, the water depth at the terminus of the Columbia Glacier has been as deep as 700 feet. This depth caused the glacier to retreat rapidly and calve huge icebergs.

When glaciers calve, they do so by ice falling off the terminus into the seawater from above the water and the ice breaking off from the glacier below the water’s surface. Because ice floats, it rockets upward after breaking away from the glacier’s face. This article does a great job describing the calving action of a tidewater glacier. Here is a link (same link at the bottom). Tidewater Glaciers

Icebergs

Icebergs form when tidewater glaciers are warmed, and ice chunks break off and float near the glacier face. Starting in Antarctica and Greenland, these icebergs can be huge and float away from land.

One of my biggest surprises was our arrival at the ice flow near the face of the Columbia Glacier. From our location, at the edge of the ice flow, miles of ice separated us from the glacier’s face. The glacier was obviously huge and really far away.

Only twelve years ago, the Columbia Glacier was the combined terminus of nine major and minor glaciers. Ten years ago, it separated as it retreated from the West Columbia Glacier (photo above). NASA imagery shows that the ice field calved from the glacier into the ocean. To appreciate this, you really need to follow that link to the NASA website. Here is that same link. NASA Columbia Glacier

Our trip deep into the ice flow

Upon our arrival, the glacier’s terminus was miles away and across. First, we paused at the edge of the ice flow, and then gradually, Captain Fred pushed his way into it. Quickly, there was ice all around us. As we pushed further and further into the ice flow, we started seeing harbor seals lying on some of the icebergs.

While we ventured into the ice flows, I remembered reading about Shackleton’s exploration of the Antarctic Ocean.  The book “Endurance” describes Shackleton’s story. Shackelton’s story is also the subject of about a dozen other books. The short story is that his boat became locked in ice near Antarctica, and due to a series of miracles all created by Shackleton, he and the crew survived the ordeal. If the Shackleton story is new to you, here is a link to a description of the book. Endurance: Shackleton’s Incredible Voyage

Instead of exploring the Antarctic Ocean, we were exploring the glacier-carved fjords and the Columbia Glacier north of Prince William Sound with Captain Fred on the Lu-Lu Belle. The icebergs were initially far away and well separated. Gradually, they became smaller, and while not creating a solid sheet, there was much more ice than water. As we pushed further into the ice, my memories about the Shackleton story came into my head, and I started thinking about being locked in an ice flow. This was an adventure.

Uncharted water

In the world’s oceans, most of the shallow water less than 100 fathoms (100 fathoms = 600 feet) is charted carefully. The only sailors concerned with more water deeper than 100 fathoms live on submarines. When water depth is less than 100 feet deep, water depth becomes a huge deal. As a glacier retreats, it doesn’t leave markers about water depth. Waters at the terminus of a glacier can be several hundred feet deep or very shallow. Glaciers, as they move, have a bulldozer effect on the bottom and a conveyor belt effect in the middle, depositing rocks along with their movement.

Tidal effect on water depth

The tides have a significant effect on water depth. First, there is the current caused by the tides’ movement, which will move your ship with the movement of the water. Second, and just as important, there is an issue with the depth of the water that changes with the tides. As the tides go out, the depth gets shallower. Being near the face of a glacier is like being at the back of a bay. You don’t really feel the current, but rather, you notice the water depth change.

The tidal movement in Alaska can be huge. A normal tidal movement will add (or subtract) up to twenty feet of water. Large tidal movements are called king tides. A king tide can add or subtract fifty or even a hundred feet of water, depending on your location. Tidal movement is why docks at a port float on the water.

About our trip on the Lu-Lu Belle

As I mentioned in my previous post, I liked Valdez Alaska, and one of the reasons I liked Valdez was our cruise on the Lu-Lu Belle. I mention this at this time because of all the people on Earth, Captain Fred knows the most about the water near the Columbia Glacier. He designed the Lu-Lu Belle and has been taking the boat to the face of the Columbia Glacier for nearly 50 years. He started with the Lu-Lu Belle in 1979. Regarding operating a boat in the uncharted waters near the Columbia Glacier, Captain Fred is the number one authority. No one on earth has more experience or knowledge on the subject.

Running out of water

Two weeks after our trip on the Lu-Lu Belle, Captain Fred’s knowledge and experience met their limit, and he spent the night alone on the Lu-Lu Belle. Lu-Lu Belle was sitting on (wet) land near the face of the Columbia Glacier. From what I know about Captain Fred, he probably spent lots of time talking to himself that night.

The Coast Guard landed a helicopter(s) that picked up the crew and 18 passengers and took them back to Valdez. The following day, at high tide, the boat rose off the bottom, and Captain Fred took the boat back to Valdez without his passengers. That was it for the 2023 season. The Lu-Lu Belle needs to be inspected before the 2024 season. I am willing to bet that Captain Fred inspected every inch of the bottom of his boat while it was sitting on the bottom.

You might say that Captain Fred made a controlled landing on the bottom. He didn’t crash, and the Lu-Lu Belle didn’t sink. I am sure he was watching the depth finder and then felt the ship shudder as it first touched. Since he knew his location better than anyone else, he also must have known he was in trouble far before the rest of the crew and, more obviously, the passengers.

After it was apparent they were not going anywhere, he sent out a Mayday call, and the Coast Guard came to help. For the next few hours, there was no danger of sinking. Rather than sinking, you might say that it has already sunk. Or maybe you would describe it as the water went away. The danger was not associated with sitting on the bottom but rather with how the ship floated the following day on the rising tide. If the seas and wind were calm, floating would be easy. Any of a hundred things could go wrong. Not only that, but based on his location, no help could be obtained.

Since I was a helicopter rescue pilot in the Navy,, I had to admire how easy this rescue must have been. The helicopter landed on the same part of the exposed bottom next to the Lu-Lu Belle, and they then picked up the passengers. While the Coast Guard makes plenty of harrowing rescues in Alaska, this one was as easy as it gets.

Someday, I will know more about the facts of that fateful trip. I hope the Lu-Lu Belle and Captain Fred will be operating in 2024, and I wouldn’t hesitate to go on the trip.

The photo credit of the Lu-Lu Bell sitting on the bottom of Prince William Sound at the face of the Columbia Glacier was taken from an official news release made by the United States Coast Guard. To my knowledge, they are public property owned by the citizens of the United States. As for the other photos, More than half were taken by my wife Tami.

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About our links

As you know, our blog income is zero, which allows us to be independent and tell the truth. We do not get income or commissions. No, we don’t make paid endorsements. We don’t make recommendations; instead, we will tell you what we like (or dislike). The links are only provided as a quick reference to help our readers.

Links

Alaska.Org on the Columbia Glacier

The Columbia Glacier as examined by NASA

Lu-Lu Belle Glacier and Wildlife Tours

Tidewater Glaciers

Endurance: Shackleton’s Incredible Voyage

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